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Since the sub isn't playing, most likely this is already correct. There should not be loss in frequency response. The draw of your system at full output is probably more than all of the vehicle's designed draw combined. Originally Posted by JHAz LFE is a channel of content.

Tipp:damit Sie diesen Vorgang nicht auf allen Geräten einzeln durchführen müssen. First thing to understand is that the prime the frequency — up to 20,000Hz 20kHz is the hearing range — the shorter its wavelength, which means a smaller driver will be sufficient to move the air loud enough. I have two of that one. Oath stellt Ihnen auch personalisierte Anzeigen auf den Produkten unserer Partner zur Verfügung. A pan inside the device reveals a huge 16-inch Ultra driver, an 8-inch, edge-wound voice coil and a continuous 1,500-watt Sledge amplifier — all which team up to create unbelievable sound with up to 5000 watts of total power. But, if you are looking for ear bleeding bass then you are in the between category. Wholesale Car Audio Distributors.

They're Marine certified, with an IP56 rating too, which means it'll produce powerful bass in even the worst environments. Indeed, most PA subwoofers are made that they can safely be placed on the floor and even use the floor as a resonating membrane.

Is it better to use speaker wire or LFE for a subwoofer? - Power Handling There are multiple power handling ratings for subwoofers and speakers, the two most important to note are RMS Continuous Power Handling, and sensitivity.

It can if you get something decent. Decent component speakers come with passive crossovers. What model is that amp? The chances of your amp ruining subs, is quite small unless the distortion factor is extremely high. You'll ruin speakers quicker from clipping than over powering. Again, what's your amp's model, you don't need to go the bazooka route unless you want to be able to use them in another vehicle or move them around easily or would i need two bazookas? What kind of vehicle? He needs subs, not a new amp. Get the subs that match your amp and system. I have a Pioneer Super Tuner III running my car speakers on the inside, they are sony explodes. Powered by a highly over exaggerated and falsely advertised 250w Jensen amp. Its all the AMP can do to power the sub which really is only about 50w 4 Ohm. Now my system can rattle the trunk if playing Eminem, but its not over powering as it actually compliments the system. In addition if you go the single sub route to save money and not be over powering, you can not tell the diference of which direction left or right the base if coming from, Hope this helps. I have had custom audio in all of my vehicles since I started driving. I was a professional musician while in my 20's and I still own a recording studio. I have owned a live sound company that was very successful and sold it for a tidy profit. I think I know good audio and where to get it. At the very least you could call them for advice. These are great people and they are always there to help. I've never done it as a source of income, but installing and car-audio competition are long-time favorite hobbies of mine. The box matters far more in your case. The only reason I would ever recommend a sealed enclosure would be where there is only a very small space to work with. Amps are usually pretty durable, and last years if not severely abused or misused. I would have checked it out first, but you should be satisfied with the bazooka. Since you weren't sure about your amp, better safe than sorry. For your purposes, as long as the ohms matched the amps' outputs, you'd be fine. Lots of amps die because of being wired outside of their impendence ratings. I strongly suggest getting any install done at a specialized car audio shop, by a certified installer like MECP. A Bazooka might not apply to that, though... I'd still prefer it, but I doubt even a Best Buy installer could screw that up. Personally, I'd just post here and get help doing that install yourself. You'd save a bit of money and get some invaluable experience. I get impatient with things for time to time, but for all who have a few days, I would strongly recommend waiting to get all the info you can before making a decision. Most of the time it takes me weeks to get a system design that I'm completely satisfied with. Some things that I always take into consideration are: music type which you did... You mentioned it, but didn't really apply it to your decision. If you tune your box to or buy a box that is tuned to this frequency, waves combine, making the sound louder with each wave. If it doesn't match, it can cancel out the frequency, and cause unwanted reverberations, and quiet or silent ranges in sound. There are various ways of addressing different problems, but it is much easier designing a system with this knowledge ahead of time. You can fix these later with Dynamat or other similar products. It isn't always necessary to think of this first. Dynamat et al aren't cheap... Even an amp like you chose can quickly drain a battery, or even dim lights when the bass hits. This is a good sign of a bad install. If you don't think of this at first, you can be stuck with a system that drains your battery, doesn't get the power it needs to function properly, or even be dangerous. The draw of your system at full output is probably more than all of the vehicle's designed draw combined. In other words, you could end up draining the battery even while the vehicle runs. A system that you couldn't listen to because you don't have the money to buy the alt or cap needed to get it working sucks even worse than having a stock radio. Caps and alts aren't cheap. I don't recommend getting them unless they are hooked up with a proper crossover. I haven't really found an internal crossover that I liked. The quality is always better with an external crossover. At least, for separate components like you're talking about. If they aren't set up right, they can easily and often do result in reduced overall sound quality. I didn't see it mentioned. Not just how much space there is in the trunk or whereever , but how much you are willing to sacrifice for the project. There are lots of other things to consider, and it just takes time. All that being said, in your situation, you should be fine with your choice. I would suggest moving the box around to get the sound to suit your tastes, though. Moving it around, beleive it or not, can easily and WILL change the loudness of given frequencies by a factor of 10x or more. I've never done it as a source of income, but installing and car-audio competition are long-time favorite hobbies of mine. The box matters far more in your case. The only reason I would ever recommend a sealed enclosure would be where there is only a very small space to work with. Amps are usually pretty durable, and last years if not severely abused or misused. I would have checked it out first, but you should be satisfied with the bazooka. Since you weren't sure about your amp, better safe than sorry. For your purposes, as long as the ohms matched the amps' outputs, you'd be fine. Lots of amps die because of being wired outside of their impendence ratings. I strongly suggest getting any install done at a specialized car audio shop, by a certified installer like MECP. A Bazooka might not apply to that, though... I'd still prefer it, but I doubt even a Best Buy installer could screw that up. Personally, I'd just post here and get help doing that install yourself. You'd save a bit of money and get some invaluable experience. I get impatient with things for time to time, but for all who have a few days, I would strongly recommend waiting to get all the info you can before making a decision. Most of the time it takes me weeks to get a system design that I'm completely satisfied with. Some things that I always take into consideration are: music type which you did... You mentioned it, but didn't really apply it to your decision. If you tune your box to or buy a box that is tuned to this frequency, waves combine, making the sound louder with each wave. If it doesn't match, it can cancel out the frequency, and cause unwanted reverberations, and quiet or silent ranges in sound. There are various ways of addressing different problems, but it is much easier designing a system with this knowledge ahead of time. You can fix these later with Dynamat or other similar products. It isn't always necessary to think of this first. Dynamat et al aren't cheap... Even an amp like you chose can quickly drain a battery, or even dim lights when the bass hits. This is a good sign of a bad install. If you don't think of this at first, you can be stuck with a system that drains your battery, doesn't get the power it needs to function properly, or even be dangerous. The draw of your system at full output is probably more than all of the vehicle's designed draw combined. In other words, you could end up draining the battery even while the vehicle runs. A system that you couldn't listen to because you don't have the money to buy the alt or cap needed to get it working sucks even worse than having a stock radio. Caps and alts aren't cheap. I don't recommend getting them unless they are hooked up with a proper crossover. I haven't really found an internal crossover that I liked. The quality is always better with an external crossover. At least, for separate components like you're talking about. If they aren't set up right, they can easily and often do result in reduced overall sound quality. I didn't see it mentioned. Not just how much space there is in the trunk or whereever , but how much you are willing to sacrifice for the project. There are lots of other things to consider, and it just takes time. All that being said, in your situation, you should be fine with your choice. I would suggest moving the box around to get the sound to suit your tastes, though. Moving it around, beleive it or not, can easily and WILL change the loudness of given frequencies by a factor of 10x or more. I didn't read the entire thread, only posted after reading the initial post. IMHO though, car audio competition is wildly different than planning a good sounding system that you can listen to daily and not make your ears bleed. The OP stated that he was simply needing a small sub to complement an almost complete system that did not need to be obnoxiously loud. But you guys seem to have it under control, although I stated that I wouldn't and have rarely used off the shelf components for custom mobile audio. I also feel that a well designed system doesn't have or need large bass boxes to have acceptable bass response. Like I said, I still didn't read the rest of the thread and this in only my. No disrespect for your apparent qualifications.